Old Delhi

Old Delhi was once known as Shahjahanabad – after the 5th Great Mughal Shahjahan who, built the Red Fort during 1638-48AD on deciding to shift his Capital to Delhi from Agra. Today a World Heritage Site, the fort was named ‘Qila-i-Mualla’ - fort of good fortune. It was built in Camp style of architecture with open pavilions like Diwan-i-Am or Hall of Public Audience; Diwan-i-Khas or Hall of Private Audience; Rang Mahal or Palace of Colours - a space for royal leisure; the emperor’s private chambers, baths etc, set amidst lush gardens full of fragrant flowers and trees. So pleased was Shahjahan with his creation that he had it inscribed in its Diwan-i-Khas: “If there be Paradise on Earth, it is here, it is here, it is here”.

From 1648 to 1857, the Red Fort housed 13 Mughal emperors – from the peak to the end of the dynasty. It was from here that Nadir Shah of Persia took away the Kohinoor Diamond & the fabled Peacock Throne, and ordered the massacre of Delhi; here that Afghan invader Ahmed Shah Abdali blinded a Mughal emperor; and, it was here that the British tried their patron, Bahadur Shah Zafar – the last Mughal emperor - and exiled him to Burma thus ending the spectacular dynasty.

He also built the Jama Masjid, which till recently, was the largest mosque in Asia, where a hair of Prophet Mohammad is housed.

The high Street of Shahjahanabad, Chandni Chowk was also laid out at that time, leading from Red Fort to Fatehpuri Masjid at the other end. It is believed that once the street of Chandni Chowk was a canal with shops on both sides and accommodation for the shop-owners on the floor above, thus using the infrastructure during commercial and non-commercial hours both.

The wall was built around Shahjahanabad with 8 gates which are still visible today along with some parts of the wall. Starting from Delhi Gate and going in the clock-wise direction, we have, Turkman Gate, Ajmeri Gate, Lahori Gate, Mori Gate, Kashmiri Gate, Nigam Bodh Gate and Calcutta Gate.

Fashionable areas of Shahjahabad were Daryaganj between Red Fort and Delhi Gate and the area on the front of the fort on the right where now stands the Bhagirath Palace market.

Ghalib’s home was further down Chandni Chowk on the left at Balli Maran.

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